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The metal portion of the hook extends all the length of the handle so there is no risk of glue loosening or the metal portion popping out.
It’s a great hook definitely worth a try if you are working primarily in synthetic yarns, use pencil grasp or just want to see what else is out there. Hamanaka Raku Raku Double-Ended Hook – Manufactured in Japan by Clover, these double ended crochet hooks are usually fairly pricey due to the lack of availability and importers.
When I use these hooks, the unused end digs into my wrist as I crochet and ends up hurting.
They are good hooks but the cost coupled with the difficulty in locating and the discomfort of a shorter handle makes them less than ideal.
The notch that holds the loop is passive in that the yarn sits in there but can slide in and out because there is no hook shaped overhang.In not inline hooks, the throat can have a significant taper and a rounded out cavity to hold the loop securely which can be helpful for crocheters that routinely pop their hook out of their work and drop loops. In all honesty I don’t see much difference between these and cheap non-inline hooks such as 1 and 2, other than there aren’t really the same quality control issues.In inline hooks, the throat can often be more like a notch or slit in the perfectly rounded and symmetrical cylinder which can sometimes be helpful for crocheters that often snag or split yarn. Folks crocheting for extended periods or working tightly will likely have fatigue from gripping such a thin handle and may wish to look into handled hooks. Addi Comfort Grip – This hook has the same hook end as the Addi Swing, an ergonomic hook with a toothbrush like handle that would probably be more comfortable than the supposed Comfort grip hook.The company was very nice and mailed me a replacement immediately with impressive customer service.The replacement hook which arrived in the mail a week later (they did not ask me to send them the broken one either) did the exact same thing. Tulip Etimo Hook – This hook is manufactured in Japan by Tulip and used to be very hard to find but is now imported to North America by Caron, making it much easier to purchase.Point – the very tip of the hook that is pushed into loops of yarn. The handle on this hook is really short, not allowing for a natural grip and the plastic is hard with grooved notch grips that just dug into pressure points in my fingers and felt uncomfortable.I don’t recommend the Comfort Grip but the Swing might be better for people looking for a comfortable handle.Shaft – the shaft is essentially the long, elegant neck of the crochet hook. Start with a single hook of your most commonly used size, then if it works well for you, buy the sizes you anticipate needing to avoid wasting money on crochet hooks you may never use. Depending on the thickness of the hook there can be problems with too much flexing or bending when crocheting if you work type.Shafts are usually shaped in one of two ways, in inline hooks, the shaft is like a perfectly symmetrical cylinder that does not taper at all, and in not inline hooks, the shaft is tapered. It’s not a bad idea to test them out as some really cheap hooks can have issues like paint wear that leave discoloration on yarn while you work with them.The hook has potential in it’s design but is essentially a waste of money. It is an impressively sturdy hook that is halfway between inline and not inline, leaning a little bit toward the inline style.The handle is made of a grippy almost silicone like finish meant to reduce slippage and the need to grasp tightly.